Farewell to you, Malaysia

15-Aug- 2010

“Goodbye my lover, Goodbye my friend.” With guitars in hand this is what the happy staff at Uncle Tan’s sang to us as we boarded our boat and headed downstream along the Kinabatangan River. Needless to say, we enjoyed our time in Malaysia immensely. With a few exceptions, getting from place to place is efficient, and food and accommodation are a good value. Malaysia’s National Parks, though fairly disorganized and operated by a frustrating bureaucracy, are spectacular and provided us with our most memorable days. What else can a couple of nature nerds like us ask for?

As we sit now in Yogyakarta on Java, Indonesia we already miss Malaysia. Parroting the governator, “We’ll be back…” someday. Holding back the tears (?) but happily drinking a cheap beer we have prepared a few statistics and a list of Best’s and Worst’s from our travels in Malaysia.

By the numbers

Days in Malaysia: 42

National Parks/Natural Areas Visited: 10

Days Spent in Nature (including the Perhentian Islands): 27 (64%!)

Stomach Illnesses: 2 (1 for each of us)

Flights: 3

Train Rides: 1

Boat Trips: 13

Bus Rides: 18

Average $ Spent per Day (excluding flights): $74

Cheapest Hotel Room: $11 (in Kota Bahru)

Cheapest Dinner (for 2): $3.20 (in Kuching)

Photos Taken: 2,612 (an average of 62/day)

Best’s

Best Day

Nick: Our first day in Bako NP (Nepenthes galore!)-hiking the Lintang Trail

Rachel: Hiking in the forests of Mt. Kinabalu NP (orchids galore!)

Best City/Town

Nick: Kuala Lumpur

Rachel: Kuching

Best National Park

Nick: Gunung Mulu NP

Rachel: Mt. Kinabalu NP

Best Meal

Nick: Mango Curry at Mama’s Chalets on the Perhentian Islands

Rachel: Black pepper flat noodles with fried tofu in Kuching

Best Wildlife Experience

Nick: Early morning wild orangutan sightings on the Kinabatangan River

Rachel: Almost stepping on a bearded dragon digging a nest in Gunung Gading NP

Best Hike

Nick: Lintang Trial, Bako NP

Rachel: Ligawu River Trail, Mt. Kinabalu NP

Best Surprise

Nick: Seeing Amorpohophallus hewitii in bloom in Gunung Gading NP

Rachel: The feeling of sitting on the ocean floor while scuba diving

Best Hotel/Hostel

Nick: Lodge 121, Kuching

Rachel: Lodge 121, Kuching (1^st runner up, Royal Mulu Resort)

Place to which we’d most like to return

Nick: Gunung Gading NP, when Rafflesia is in bloom

Rachel: Sabah, Borneo

Worst’s

Worst City/Town

Nick: Kuala Tahan

Rachel: Kuala Tahan

Worst Meal

Nick: Disgusting slimy, fishy, tomato noodle dish in Kuching

Rachel: Snotty, fishy noodle soup in KL (I couldn’t even eat it)

Biggest Waste of Money

Nick: CPH Travel evening boat ride, Kuching (Lonely Planet, you really missed the boat on this one)

Rachel: CPH Travel evening boat ride, Kuching

Most Disappointing Moment

Nick: Not getting to climb to the Pinnacles in Gunung Mulu NP

Rachel: Being sick in the Cameron Highlands the entire time we were there

Worst Hotel/Hostel:

Nick: KRS Pines in the Cameron Highlands (arguing staff, cubicle room)

Rachel: The Bennerat Lodge near Gunung Mulu NP (overpriced)