Misty Mountain Hop

29-31 July
Mount Kinabalu National Park is Malaysia’s first World Heritage site and is known for its high plant diversity. The misty cloud forests of this mountainous region high in the state of Sabah are a reprieve from the sweltering heat of the lowland jungle. The main attraction here is Mount Kinabalu itself, a granitic giant towering 4095 meters high over the island of Borneo. Most come to climb the mountain – a feat that takes somewhere between 2 hours and 40 minutes if you were the winner of this year’s “great race” to the top of the mountain or two days if you prefer a more reasonable pace.

Nick and I came here for the plants, not the mountain. We spent two days exploring its mossy trails searching for miniature blooming orchids and still elusive pitcher plants. We waxed botanical and dreamed up cross-breeds of the begonias we encountered. This botanical paradise was only interrupted by steep climbs, the threat of a torrential downpour, and a leech or two. We were awestruck to happen across the fuzziest caterpillars we have ever seen and a black centipede outlined in red (check out the photo!) We were especially happy to finally recognize a few genera and were very pleased to find a number of plants in full bloom!

Tomorrow we continue our tour of Borneo’s national parks and move on to Gunung Mulu National Park. There we will fulfill a Planet Earth driven desire to watch as millions of bats depart from the parks many caves! We can only hope that it is as inspiring without Sigourney Weaver to narrate!

Welcome to Borneo

25 July 2010
After an early morning flight we arrived in Sandakan, on the island of Borneo in the Malaysian state of Sabah. We quickly made our way to Sepilok, home to one of four orangutan rehabilitation centers in the world and the starting point of tomorrow's trip up the Sungai (River) Kinabatangan (try saying that 3 times in a row). This marks the start of 3+ weeks exploring Borneo- the third largest island in the world, a haven of biodiversity, and a place where the battle between conservation and economic development is waged on a daily basis.

After settling in to Uncle Tan's, our base for the night, we set out on foot for a visit to the Rainforest Discovery Center. The Center is home to a beautiful botanical garden, several miles of trails, canopy walkways and bird observation towers. Walking on the trails amidst butterflies and scurrying lizards we arrived at the Hornbill Observation Tower. Hornbills are large forest birds with large bills, which are symbols of the islands faunal diversity. As we climbed the observation tower, perched well over 100 feet high into the tree canopy we tried to ignore the distant thunder and darkening clouds on the near horizon (it wouldn't pour on us our first day in Borneo, would it?). After minute or two at the top, we could not ignore the approaching storm. We watched as a strong persistent wind suddenly appeared and the thunder took on a more ominous tone. Just then we notices hundreds of brown "helicopters" aloft emanating from the dipterocarp trees, which dominate the forest canopy. The seeds of these trees are perfectly suited for wind dispersal and took flight beautifully in the stiff wind. Fearing the worse we hightailed it back in the direction of the Center's headquarters-hoping for a weather miracle. About half of the way back we were caught in the storm, but we were serendipitously close to a nearby shelter-yes! There, in the shelter, we spent the next hour or so-waiting out the storm. If you have ever experienced a hard tropical rain you know that rain gear is no match (you would just sweat inside it anyway) and umbrellas offer little real protection. If it weren't for the shelter we would have been drenched to the bone an hour away from home in mere seconds.

As the storm began to pass and the thunder faded into the distance we made our way back to our guesthouse. About half of the way back we noticed three large bird silhouettes in a dead tree not to far in the distance. Upon closer inspection and after viewing their shape in flight their identification was unmistakable. Hornbills!

And, so starts the Borneo portion of our adventure. Tomorrow we visit the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center to learn about the resident great apes and the efforts to conserve them. In the afternoon we head out for 3 nights on the Kinabatangan River, where we hope to see orangutans and much more in the the wilds of Borneo.