Bali beckons on the rough road across Java.

26-30 August 2010

Weary from the multiple full day bus rides across Java from Yogyakarta to Bromo and then again from Bromo to Ijen, we decided to “get it over with” and leave Java two days early for the 12 hour trek to Bali.

The next morning, we found ourselves standing at the security checkpoint outside the Arabika coffee plantation waiting for a bemo (mini-bus) at 6am. We promised ourselves that as long as we made it onto the ferry that transports passengers between Java and Bali before 1pm (6 hours later) we would continue onto Bali (5 more hours) and not stay in Java that night. We were ready for a long day of transport. In total, we rode five buses that day. Five. The first bemo took us from Ijen down a steep, partially paved road to a crossing where we picked up another bemo. After another hour or so on this clownish like transport (the bus was lacking its higher gears and at full speed traveled at about 40 miles an hour) we hopped onto a bus headed for Denpasar, Bali.

As we munched on peanuts and listened to the onboard street band, I avoided eye contact with the kid who was trying to get me to give him my sunglasses or at least a kiss on the cheek. After successfully retaining my sunglasses and my honor, an hour and a half later on a deserted stretch of road one of the back tires blew out. This was, in fact, our second flat tire on our journey across Java, so like the locals we were unimpressed and patiently waited for the tire to be changed. After about 10 minutes it was clear that we had been driving on the spare as the tire that appeared from under the bus was totally mutilated. Ten minutes more and we were generously picked up by a passing bus, cramming ourselves and our bags into the already full bus. Indonesians are very generous people and an elderly woman offered for me to share a spot on her seat with her husband and granddaughter, squishing four people into a seat meant for two. I could not refuse her kind gesture and repeatedly smiled a thanked her “terima kasih”.

Arriving into the bus terminal in the coastal town of Banyuwangi, it became clear that we had lost our transport into Bali as they handed us 50,000 rupiah (about $5) and almost pushed us off the overflowing bus. In the terminal, the bemo drivers did not want to take us to the ferry station (about a five minute drive away) because they thought that the other bus company should pay. A few of the other passengers who had been pushed off the bus went to security to complain as we languished and pleaded to be taken anyway. Finally, after about a half an hour of this nonsense, the driver showed us a 50,000 rupiah note and pointed in the direction of the exit. Nick handed him the cash and we were off. All they wanted was five lousy dollars. We arrived at the ferry terminal and were greeted by men yelling “Denpasar!, Denpasar!”. We jumped onto a ferry, paid the fee, and checked our watch. It was 1:03pm. While we still had five hours or more ahead of us in a non-air conditioned, smoking permitted bus and we had had little food since our 5am breakfast (and stopping for lunch was out of the question) we were happy.

We arrived, exhausted, into the beach town of Sanur, Bali just a quick bemo ride from Denpasar around 6:30pm. After checking into our hotel we went to a nearby restaurant. We were greeted by traditionally dressed women, handed a free welcome cocktail, and finally the waitress gently placed plumerias behind our ears. All I could do was laugh. I embarrassed myself by giggling at the waitress. After almost two months of budget travel and a very long, hot, stinky, day behind us, we were suddenly deposited into a tourist haven, surrounded by Europeans on fancy vacations.

Being in Sanur, we could be anywhere. The difference between here and beach town X? Maybe it’s the beautiful and calming architecture, maybe the incense drenched Hinduism, or maybe it’s just the price? Maybe I’m just jaded. As humans we love places like this and we make them comfortable, including the Dunkin’ Donuts on the corner. What made me giggle in that restaurant was how uncomfortable it made me to accept such a disingenuous gesture of hospitality that is practically required in so many of our vacation “destinations”. I almost wanted to lean over and whisper to the waitress “its ok, you can act normal now”.

The last few days we have enjoyed our budget $30 a night cottage three minutes from the beach, our outdoor shower, our front and back patios, and the koi pond that sits below our giant bay windows. Dodging the flower, incense, and food (rice or sometimes a Ritz cracker) offerings to the Hindu gods, we’ve taken long evening walks on the boardwalk that runs along the beach and enjoyed watching local kids fly kites and the views of neighboring islands. I’ve gone to a yoga class, we’ve both enjoyed drinking good coffee, and who can forget the chocolate cheesecake we had for dessert last night! Bali is so pleasant that it feels like a vacation from our vacation.

The Elusive Javanese Cup of Coffee

23 August 2010

A cup of Javanese coffee is a lesson on life. Within hours of arriving on Java I had my first, heavily anticipated, cup of real Java coffee. I hated it. I was angry. It was the grainiest cup of coffee I had ever had. I hoped that I had just made a mistake and that a better cup of coffee could be found at a superior coffee establishment. Or worse, what if all the coffee beans grown on Java were exported and we would be stuck drinking Nescafe??

The second time I tried it I was still disappointed. Grainy. Grainy. Grainy! When sipped slowly the grains settled and the liquid form of the Javanese coffee (kopi) began to emerge. The days passed, more cups of coffee drunk. Slowly. Slowly. And then it happened. I was finally drinking the cup of coffee of my dreams. As with many things in life, I had to stay open minded and literally relearn how to drink coffee to appreciate this finely ground blend. And once I learned, it was the best cup of coffee I had ever had in my life. And every cup of coffee (four this morning so far) exceeded my wildest coffee expectations. “Better than the best cup of Peet’s” Nick exclaimed this morning.

So why is this coffee so grainy? My curiosity was satisfied as I watched it being made this morning. The explanation pivots on the fact that the coffee is ground up very fine. Then it is mixed with boiling water and stirred. Finally, this mixture is poured through a fine strainer (but not fine enough to filter out all the fine grounds) directly into a cup or into a decanter for pouring. The result is a very strong cup of coffee that is almost soupy with grounds. After adding a bit of milk (susu) the grains settle to the bottom of the cup and you drink, slowly. As you reach the bottom, you see the thick coffee sludge on the bottom, a reminder to pace yourself. If you are careful, you can literally sip the liquid off the grounds “to the last drop” without turning it into a grainy disaster. And there you have it, Java on the island of Java.

Turquoise and Brimstone at Ijen

25-August-2010

Being a sulfur miner at Kawah Ijen is not your normal 9 to 5 job. Just imagine what it would be like if you were one of the hardy 1300 souls who claim this rare profession. Your workday starts between 2 and 4 AM amongst the pre-dawn mist shrouding the volcano-studded Ijen Plateau in East Java. Your commute consists of a 3 kilometer hour-long uphill trek to the rim of the Ijen Volcano, ascending approximately 2000 feet in elevation. At the rim of the volcano, its top blown off and filled with a surreal turquoise-colored lake you look downward in the pre-dawn darkness and gaze at billowing sulfur gases. Welcome to your office.

You point your toes downward and begin the 30 minute, steep descent to the level of the lake and the origin on the pungent, thick sulfur smoke. Stumbling downward in the darkness you reach the sulfur mine, toxic gases vented through massive metal pipes. This view is familiar to you, but is foreign to nearly everyone else on this planet. Braving the billowing toxic gases, your eyes watering with a piece of rag tied around your mouth to prevent you from inhaling too much gas you approach the sulfur deposits. Working quickly and constantly watching the movement of the gas to avoid being enveloped in its acrid wrath you use a long metal bar to chip away chunks of solid sulfur. It glows a phosphorescent yellow in the morning light. You cough and wipe your eyes.

Having chipped away a number of large chunks of pure sulfur you transfer your load into two large hand woven baskets connected by a piece of two inch thick bamboo. You hoist the load onto one shoulder, its weight nearly crushes you, and you strain to begin the next stage of your workday. You typically carry 60-80 kilograms (132 to 176 pounds) per load, and because you are an Indonesian, this exceeds your body weight. Your legs nearly buckle as you make your way up the steep trail to the crater rim. With frequent rests you make it to the weigh station (about half-way down the mountain), where you load your 2 baskets (the pole in between) onto a scale. You are given a voucher for the load (through which you will receive your pay check), and proceed to deposit your load at a place of your choosing close to the bottom of the mountain. After a quick rest (it is now 2-3 hours into your workday) you head back uphill to gather your second load of the day.

This afternoon, Rachel and I relax at the Arabika coffee plantation, and reflect on the ease and simplicity of our lives. We are now in the Ijen Plateau, and we, too, woke before dawn and made our way to Kawah Ijen. Our hike to this beautiful volcano to witness its rugged beauty, lush forest, and unbelievable lake was a frolic when compared to the workday of miners who make their living hauling heavy loads and dodging sulfur gases. The landscape of Kawah Ijen is undeniably beautiful. Sulfur gases constantly drift across the lake’s turquoise water. Intricately fluted volcanic ridges reveal themselves through drifting clouds and sulfur fog. Stable substrates are cloaked in vegetation dominated by waist-high ferns dripping in morning dew. It is easy to fall in love with the beauty of this volcanic landscape. This beautiful scene serves as the backdrop to (at least in our minds) one of the world’s strangest professions.

An average miner will haul two loads totaling about 140 kilograms of sulfur to market in a single workday. Each miner receives 600 rupiah per kilogram of sulfur. This amounts to a grand total of about $9.20 per day. While this amount seems like a pittance, $9.20/day is actually not that bad in Indonesia, where a police officer receives about half this amount for a day’s work. And, quite counter intuitively, Ijen’s sulfur miners apparently suffer few health problems as a result of their occupation. With our own eyes we witnessed many men twice our age carrying loads we could not even lift up steep, unstable slopes. Maybe Ijen’s sulfur miners will lend us some perspective when, in the not too distant future, we curtail our wanderings and find ourselves back in the daily grind.

Beautiful, Beautiful Bromo

23-24 August 2010

I first learned of Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park (Bromo) when researching this trip. Chances are, reading this post, this is the first time you have heard of this ethereal landscape. I remember looking at the photo of Bromo in the front of the Indonesian Lonely Planet Guidebook and thinking two things; that is unreal and we have to go. Images you see of Bromo’s landscape are unlikely. You find yourself asking aloud, “Is that place on this earth?” Bromo really does look like a place you would find in some sci-fi movie. Upon arrival in Cemoro Lawang, the gateway to Bromo, you can only conclude that the images plastered on the walls of the restaurants and hotel lobbies must some kind of ruse. Maybe you get to see an image like that once a year or maybe you have to trek for three days to arrive at the best viewpoint… A few days ago we met a tourist who said, “We saw nothing but clouds at Bromo.”

This is what we half-expected to see when we rose at 3:30 in the morning and climbed into a Jeep, reeking of diesel, with four other tourists bound for Gunung (Indonesian for Mount) Penanjakan. Gunung Penanjakan, the best viewpoint for Bromo’s spectacular landscape, is reached by a 1-hour drive on an unpaved steep, narrow road. Our driver dropped us off and we began the 10-minute jaunt to the viewpoint. Let’s get this straight; this is not a wilderness experience. From the start you are pestered by touts selling food, hats, scarves (“it is cold up there, sir”), souvenir t-shirts, and entrepreneurs offering to rent windbreakers for 10,000 rupiah (about $1). One gets to share the viewpoint with well over 300 other tourists vying to get a perfect photo or two. The best vantage points, no ALL of the vantage points, are stacked at least four people deep. Upon arrival, the scene tempted us to turn around and go home. We searched unsuccessfully for an open spot, and then found ourselves climbing under a guard railing (safety first!). We then perched ourselves in perfect, unobstructed positions- clinging to the cliff’s edge. In the dim twilight we crossed our fingers for good weather.

From the moment we left our hotel room this morning it was very cloudy. The first thing I did was look up into the night sky and all I could see was the faint twinkle of a single star through the clouds and mist. We could barely see the road in front of us on the drive up the mountain. At the viewpoint, awaiting the sunrise, we stared at a dense, thick, white fogbank. The pessimist in me had completely set in as we sat in the cold darkness perched on the side of Gunung Penanjakan.

As the sun began to rise over East Java faint clouds on the horizon began to be illuminated and distant hills and sharp peaks revealed themselves gradually. Then, as the morning light first hit Bromo’s landscape, much to everyone’s amazement, the dense fogbank began to breakup. We felt a slight breeze and the high layer of fog and clouds covering the mountains, as if on cue, began to march westward. The sound of clicking shutters punctuated the twilight. Over the next hour or so the clouds and fog came and went, simultaneously revealing portions of Bromo’s landscape while shrouding others in crystal white. Words cannot describe the beauty of this landscape. In the foreground sits the intricately-fluted pyramid Gunung Batok. To the left and slightly beyond Gunung Batok is the famous Gunung Bromo, constantly emitting an enormous stream of white, sulfurous gas-its top blown off from a previous eruption. The landscape behind Gunung Bromo recedes into an intricate maze of ridges and peaks. Far off, the view is crowned by the massive, smoking pyramid of Gunung Semeru. To add to the scene’s drama the valley bottom was constantly cloaked in a low fog. This gave the appearance that this magical mountain scene was floating on a pillow of clouds.

In the early morning light we watched the changing clouds and photographed the beauty before us. As we walked down toward our Jeep, Rachel and I tried to determine if either of us had ever viewed a more dramatic landscape. Our conclusion was that the only place that might compete with Bromo is the Fitz Roy Range in Argentina. Needless to say, Bromo is one spectacular place.

We then headed down to take a short hike to the top of smoking Gunung Bromo. The day before, Rachel and I walked to the top of Gunung Bromo from Cemoro Lawang shortly before midday and, with the exception of the locals trying to sell us stuff (motorcycle rides, horseback rides, tea, snacks, trinkets, bouquets of flowers to throw into the volcano, etc…), we had the place nearly to ourselves. Today, as the crowds of people at the Gunung Penanjakan viewpoint are all on the same itinerary, the hike to the top of Gunung Bromo was a circus. We literally had to wade through dozens of wranglers offering us horseback rides, thousands of piles of horse shit, trinket sellers, and, of course, the hordes of tourists puffing their way up the mountain. Once again, this is not a wilderness experience. Nonetheless, looking down into the guts of Gunung Bromo for the second day in a row was still a spectacular experience. The sulfur smoke billows out in voluminous puffs, the air stinks of rotten eggs, tourists walk around the crater rim attempting to get the perfect photo, a local guy shoves a bouquet of dried flowers in your face (“10,000 rupiah, an offering to the gods”) while his colleagues wait just below the crater rim to re-collect any thrown bouquets. This is Java, baby!

Not Like the Movies - Katy Perry

He put it on me, I put it on,
Like there was nothing wrong.
It didn't fit,
It wasn't right.
Wasn't just the size.
They say you know,
When you know.
I don't know.

I didn't feel
The fairytale feeling, no.
Am I a stupid girl
For even dreaming that I could.

If it's not like the movies,
Thats how it should be, yeah.
When he's the one,
I'll come undone,
And my world will stop spinning
And that's just the beginning, yeah.

Snow white said when I was young,
"One day my prince will come."
So I wait for that date.
They say its hard to meet your match,
Find my better half.
So we make perfect shapes.
If stars don't align,

If it doesn't stop time,
If you cant see the sign,
Wait for it.
One hundred percent,
With every penny spent.
He'll be the one that,
Finishes your sentences.

If it's not like the movies,
Thats how it should be.
When he's the one,
He'll come undone,
And my world will stop spinning,
And thats just the beginning.

'Cause I know you're out there,
And your, your love came for me.
It's a crazy idea that you were made,
Perfectly for me you'll see.

Just like the movies.
That's how it will be.
Cinematic and dramatic with the perfect ending.
It's not like the movies,
But that's how it should be, yeah.
When he's the one,
You'll come undone,
And your world will stop spinning,
And it's just the beginning.

Merapi Sunrise

20 August 2010

Waking at 3:30am, we were greeted with hot coffee and ready to head out on a short trek to view Gunung Merapi at dawn. In the past, this volcano was climbed on a regular basis but a handful of minor and major eruptions since the early 1990’s now make climbing more difficult, and actually illegal in some cases. As we finished our coffee and a short a briefing about our trek to Merapi, we headed out around 4am. As we walked through the small town of Kaliurang, we were surprised to see so many people out. But my tired mind slowly remembered that it was Ramadan and those who want to eat before sundown must rise before dawn. Some of these folks were heading to pray, as the call to prayer goes out around 4:30am every day. I usually enjoy this melodic chant from under the covers as it wakes me up and softly lulls me back to sleep. This morning, we are walking uphill and the echo of the Imam chanting in prayer set my mind at ease on our dark, sleepy walk.

As we trekked onwards in the dark it took most of my concentration to ensure that my feet stayed on the path as they stumbled over the roots and rocks on the trail. Finally, dawn arrived and we began to anticipate our first view of Gunung Merapi! Sometime after 5:30am we stopped at our first viewpoint to enjoy and photograph the early morning glow on the smoking giant in the distance. As we headed onwards we saw that we were not alone on the lower slopes of Merapi, as women from nearby villages come here to cut grass for their animals in town.

When we reached the final viewpoint and enjoyed the view, our guide began to tell us stories about the mountain itself, the local people, and all of the natural and anthropogenic disasters on the volcano. Besides being intrigued by the threat of pyroplastic flows and the inevitable blow-out – this volcano is similar structurally to Krakatoa and would threaten millions of lives in a large eruption – we were very interested to hear the local mythology surrounding the mountain. The local people believe that they live in a kingdom ruled by Mt Merapi. Because they view Merapi as a benevolent king, they do not believe that he would hurt them. They continue to live within a few kilometers of this smoking beast and, according to our guide, without fear of being consumed by a lava flow. He also said that even if someone from the village was killed by the volcano their family members would be more likely to say that he had gone to “the kingdom and gotten a new job” than to say that he had died.

Of the other disasters that this jolly man imparted to us, the most colorful was of two aid workers sent to evacuate the village during an eruption in 2006. After unsuccessfully evacuating the villagers (for reasons explained above) the aid works ran for cover in a bunker designed to protect against lava flows. Our guide said, and I quote, “They both die. One like satay, one like soup”. This puzzled us but he soon explained that one was found on the cement floor of the bunker while the other had run for cover in the bathtub. You can guess the rest. He also claimed that they were the only two to die during this eruption. This was such a funny way of explaining such a sad event that we giggled a little guiltily before he moved on to tell us about the tourists who had died climbing the mountain or broke their legs trying.

We arrived back at Vogels Hostel at about 8:30am and enjoyed a quick breakfast before heading back down to Yogyakarta. We’ve really been on the move! Tomorrow we start out early for a 12 hour trip to Gunung Bromo, yet another volcano. Indonesia is chalk full of them! After a few days at Bromo we head to the Ijen Plateau for more volcanoes and good coffee before heading on to Bali, Flores, and Lombok.

Borobudur-Not your everyday temple.

19-August-2010

Borobudur is not your ordinary, everyday temple. It is undoubtedly one of Buddhism’s most spectacular monuments, and is one Asia’s premier cultural attractions. Borobudur easily could be considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It makes our list so far.

Borobudur sits on a broad, verdant plain surrounded by rice paddies and fields of tobacco at the base of precipitous mountains. One of several Buddhist temples in the area, Borobudur is the most grand and majestic (possibly in the world). After marveling at this temple’s scale and fine detail you cannot help but ponder what drove the Sailendra dynasty to build Borobudur in the 8^th and 9^th centuries. The temple was unknown to westerners until the 19th century. Covered by volcanic ash from nearby Gunung Merapi Borobudur was in bad repair, and restoration is still ongoing. Awe-inspired by its thousands of stone carvings and carefully placed stone blocks it is hard to believe that Borobudur was abandoned shortly after its completion. We all know that “Why,” is always the hardest question to answer.

Borbudur is staggering in scale. It consists of 2 million stone blocks arranged in the form of a stupa (bell shaped) with six concentric square terraces topped by 3 circular terraces. The terraces are lined with over 2500 intricately-carved stone panels. Many illustrate Buddha’s life and philosophical teachings, but some are purely decorative. Walking around the temple you literally view millions of stone carvings, and it is hard to believe that all of this work was done by hand. Chambers in Borobudur’s walls contain more than 400 carved, seated Buddha statues, each about 4 feet tall. The upper terraces of the temple are lined by 72 large stupas, inside each of which sits a similar Buddha statue. Complicated, intricate, and beautiful are three words that accurately describe Borobudur.

We spent one afternoon and one morning exploring Borobudur. We walked around each terrace clockwise (as one should do in a Buddhist temple) and gawked at the multitude of beautiful stone carvings. Many of the carvings are so ornate that they would be tourist attractions in and of themselves. We watched as the sunset and following day’s sunrise cast shadows and placed emphasis on separate parts of the temple. We observed as mist emanated from the surrounding mountains while casting views toward the distant, massive Gunung Merapi. We observed early morning light filtering through the windows formed by a stupa’s stone blocks, illuminating the head of a Buddha statue contained within. We watched as the sun peered over the dark clouds that lined the horizon partially blinding us and making silhouettes out of dozens of massive stupas.

We are told that Buddhist pilgrims used to (and still do?) make their way to Borobudur on their own paths toward enlightenment. They would walk around each terrace examining each stone carving and meditate on their meanings. While our experience at Borobudur was far from a religious pilgrimage it was indeed spiritual. Maybe this is the true meaning and purpose behind spectacular religious monuments like Borobudur. You don’t need to be a devotee to be moved and to experience the spiritual power that drove its creation more than 1100 years ago. We shared our enjoyment of Borobudur with visitors from all colors and creeds. At sunrise and at sunset the Muslim call to prayer blared from the village mosque. Somehow this all seems to fit in a place like Java where visits on successive days to world-class Hindu and Buddhist sites are marked by fireworks celebrating the end of each day’s Ramadan fast.

We will never know what drove Borobudur to be abandoned more than 1000 years ago. All we know is that its beauty shines as bright today as it did the day of its completion. Watching the sunrise illuminating thousands of intricate stone carvings, dozens of massive stupas, and hundreds of serene Buddha statues we are, at least for a few moments, enlightened.

­

Finally, Some Culture! Prambanan and The Ramayana Ballet!

17 August 2010

We were excited to visit our first temple of the trip, and as we approached Prambanan in the outskirts of Yogyakarta we strained our necks to catch a glimpse of the tallest temple in Indonesia. In the hours that followed we strolled between and into the large and small and ruined temples taking in the intricate carvings and the serene sunset atmosphere. The carvings on the sides of these temples are exquisite, though some are admittedly time worn and others have obviously been pieced back together.

Prambanan is constructed of over 244 temples and was built around 850 AD by the ruling Hindu king. It appears to be built with a basalt stone of unknown (to us, anyway) origin. It has been damaged by multiple earthquakes, one during the 1600’s that destroyed many of its temples and another more recently in 2006. Like so many archeology sites, it was slowly but surely “relieved” of its bronze statues, building stones, and various other artifacts by looters. While we had been warned about scaffolding and fencing due to the ongoing restoration of the site, we found no scaffolding and easily ignored the fencing around the main temple.

After enjoying these temples up close for a few hours, we headed over to the Ramayana Ballet which is performed in an open air theatre with Prambanan lit up in the background. We ate dinner at the attached restaurant and groaned at the $15 bill (soooo expensive), but figured it was worth it for the view of Prambanan in the distance. After dinner, we hurriedly headed to our seats for the ballet.

The Ramayana ballet tells the story of a princess who is kidnapped by an evil king and is rescued (of course) by her betrothed prince (or something like that). The beautiful, and unique, choreography is performed to the music of a live gamelan orchestra. The gamelan orchestra is made up of bell like xylophones, drums, singing, clapping, a string instrument, maybe a flute, and a few other indescribable instruments. This, to me, creates music that is strangely haunting. The beautiful costumes, the haunting music, the unique dance style, and Prambanan lit in the distance made for a very lovely evening. I think Nick and I both agree that our favorite moment of the evening was when they actually lit part of the stage on fire as one of the characters burned down the evil king’s castle. Yes, this was part of the show and no I don’t think they would ever let you do that in the good ol’ US of A.

After spending the morning purchasing beautiful batik fabric for Nick’s mom and figuring out how to send them in the mail, we made our way to Borobadur, a Buddhist temple built around the same time as Prambanan. We will wake up bright and early tomorrow to enjoy it at sunrise!

An Indonesian Welcome in Yogyakarta

17-August- 2010

Becak? Becak? You need taxi? Where you from? What’s your name? Special deal, sir?

Welcome to Yogyakarta, (pronounced Jogjakarta, Jogja for short), island of Java, Indonesia. Saying Yogyakarta is a lively place would be a broad understatement. The city is teeming with people, and all forms of transportation are omnipresent. Motorbikes (sometimes carrying as many as four people), buses, bicycles, cars, horse-drawn carriages, and becaks (human-pedaled bicycle taxis) flood the streets. When crossing the street, you literally put your life at risk.

Upon arriving in Jogja we quickly realized that people here are a little more pushy than in Malaysia (also an understatement). In contrast to Malaysia, the urgency of the locals to sell you things and provide you with services they are sure you need is, in this somewhat-impoverished country, present and prominent.

Jogja is a festive place and preparations are in place to celebrate Indonesia’s Independence Day, August 17^th. Red and white flags are strung everywhere, stages are set up in central locations, fireworks interrupt the city’s sounds intermittently, and we have already witnessed one parade. Earlier today we watched as marching bands, floats, men on stilts, and a mobile gamelan orchestra paraded down the main drag, Jalan Malioboro (more fireworks just now). Independence Day coincides with the Islamic holy month of Ramadan, and this definitely adds to the festive atmosphere, especially at sundown. For the entire month Muslims fast (no cigarettes, no food, no drink-not even water) from sun-up to sundown. Horns blare from the loudspeakers of the city’s many mosques and tensions are released as the sun drops below the horizon. Time for the the iftar (the evening meal), the fast is broken at sunset. As we enjoy a large, pre-sunset Bintang beer on a restaurant’s rooftop terrace we stop to ponder how “inappropriate” this is. On that note, we are so happy to bid farewell to Malaysia’s exorbitant alcohol prices.

We spent the day wondering the streets of Yogyakarta and visited the Kraton (Sultan’s Palace- yes, there still is a sultan here), the bird market, the Sultan’s pleasure palace known as the Watercastle or Taman Sari, the district known as Prawirotawan to eat and gawk at antiques, and many, many batik shops (let me mention that as we type what sounds like patriotic music is being blasted from a small square that is tucked inside this alleyway and fireworks are being set off).We enjoyed all of this and especially enjoyed soaking up the local culture, including all the nagging. Because Rachel spent so much time in and out of batik stores (her favorites were the hand painted silks, costing $450), we managed to linger along the main drag for some time and serendipitously stumbled upon the aforementioned parade.

These are our first impressions of Indonesia- the super-diverse nation of 17,000 islands straddling the equator. On that note, we now sit for the first time of the trip in the Southern Hemisphere. This afternoon we head out to explore the Hindu temple of Prambanan and experience the Ramayana Ballet, accompanied by a full gamelan orchestra. After gorging on nature in Borneo, a little culture feels good.

“Batik? Special exhibition, sir. Hello, sir?”

Farewell to you, Malaysia

15-Aug- 2010

“Goodbye my lover, Goodbye my friend.” With guitars in hand this is what the happy staff at Uncle Tan’s sang to us as we boarded our boat and headed downstream along the Kinabatangan River. Needless to say, we enjoyed our time in Malaysia immensely. With a few exceptions, getting from place to place is efficient, and food and accommodation are a good value. Malaysia’s National Parks, though fairly disorganized and operated by a frustrating bureaucracy, are spectacular and provided us with our most memorable days. What else can a couple of nature nerds like us ask for?

As we sit now in Yogyakarta on Java, Indonesia we already miss Malaysia. Parroting the governator, “We’ll be back…” someday. Holding back the tears (?) but happily drinking a cheap beer we have prepared a few statistics and a list of Best’s and Worst’s from our travels in Malaysia.

By the numbers

Days in Malaysia: 42

National Parks/Natural Areas Visited: 10

Days Spent in Nature (including the Perhentian Islands): 27 (64%!)

Stomach Illnesses: 2 (1 for each of us)

Flights: 3

Train Rides: 1

Boat Trips: 13

Bus Rides: 18

Average $ Spent per Day (excluding flights): $74

Cheapest Hotel Room: $11 (in Kota Bahru)

Cheapest Dinner (for 2): $3.20 (in Kuching)

Photos Taken: 2,612 (an average of 62/day)

Best’s

Best Day

Nick: Our first day in Bako NP (Nepenthes galore!)-hiking the Lintang Trail

Rachel: Hiking in the forests of Mt. Kinabalu NP (orchids galore!)

Best City/Town

Nick: Kuala Lumpur

Rachel: Kuching

Best National Park

Nick: Gunung Mulu NP

Rachel: Mt. Kinabalu NP

Best Meal

Nick: Mango Curry at Mama’s Chalets on the Perhentian Islands

Rachel: Black pepper flat noodles with fried tofu in Kuching

Best Wildlife Experience

Nick: Early morning wild orangutan sightings on the Kinabatangan River

Rachel: Almost stepping on a bearded dragon digging a nest in Gunung Gading NP

Best Hike

Nick: Lintang Trial, Bako NP

Rachel: Ligawu River Trail, Mt. Kinabalu NP

Best Surprise

Nick: Seeing Amorpohophallus hewitii in bloom in Gunung Gading NP

Rachel: The feeling of sitting on the ocean floor while scuba diving

Best Hotel/Hostel

Nick: Lodge 121, Kuching

Rachel: Lodge 121, Kuching (1^st runner up, Royal Mulu Resort)

Place to which we’d most like to return

Nick: Gunung Gading NP, when Rafflesia is in bloom

Rachel: Sabah, Borneo

Worst’s

Worst City/Town

Nick: Kuala Tahan

Rachel: Kuala Tahan

Worst Meal

Nick: Disgusting slimy, fishy, tomato noodle dish in Kuching

Rachel: Snotty, fishy noodle soup in KL (I couldn’t even eat it)

Biggest Waste of Money

Nick: CPH Travel evening boat ride, Kuching (Lonely Planet, you really missed the boat on this one)

Rachel: CPH Travel evening boat ride, Kuching

Most Disappointing Moment

Nick: Not getting to climb to the Pinnacles in Gunung Mulu NP

Rachel: Being sick in the Cameron Highlands the entire time we were there

Worst Hotel/Hostel:

Nick: KRS Pines in the Cameron Highlands (arguing staff, cubicle room)

Rachel: The Bennerat Lodge near Gunung Mulu NP (overpriced)

Amazing Indonesia, buka matamu untuk Indonesia

WELCOME.."BUKA MATAMU UNTUK INDONESIA"

Gambar diatas -> Bunderan HI
gambar diatas -> Cendol, satr ayam
Gambar diatas -> becak
Gambar diatas -> ondel ondel jakarta
Gambar diatas -> soto mie
Gambar diatas -> Tari kecak, Bali
Gambar diatas -> Sate padang
Gambar diatas - Reog
Gambar diatas -> Gudeg

Gambar diatas -> pecel
Gambar diatas -> tari Pring
Gambar diatas -> saman dari aceh
Gambar diatas -> Ubud, Bali
Gambar diatas -> salah satu pasar di Yogyakarta
Gambar diatas -> tempat tinggal rakyat primitif di Papua
Gambar diatas -> Nasi Lemak dari Riau ,Pekanbaru
Gambar diatas -> Ngarai Sianok , Sumbar
Gambar diatas -> Tari Barong dari Bali
Gambar diatas -> Candi Prambanan
Gambar diatas -> Danau Kelimoto, Nusa Tenggara

Gambar diatas -> Pulau Moyo, Nusa Tenggara

Gambar diatas -> Maggarat, NTT



Gambar diatas -> Margamulya, Kalimantan Barat
Gambar diatas -> Sungai Cibodas






Gambar diatas -> Raja Ampat, Papua





Gambar diatas -> pantai Bunaken, Sulawesi



Gambar diatas -> pulau Mentawai, Bali


Gambar diatas -> sawah di Jatiluwih, Bali

Gambar diatas-> Pura Ulundaru, Bali





Gambar diatas -> keindahan Gunung Bromo di Jawa Timur

Gambar diatas -> uluwatu, Bali


Gambar diatas -> Candi borobudur - yogyakarta



Gambar diatas -> Kota Kotamobagu, tepatnya di Kelurahan Sinindian, Sulawesi Utara



Gambar diatas -> danau TobaIndonesia tuh punya banyak keindahan cuman mungkin kita aja yang ga sadar..